New village build near Udon

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Re: New village build near Udon

Postby schuimpge » Wed Feb 21, 2018 9:18 am

Looks good so far. Nice work.
Are the yellow pipes your incoming electricity lines?

Cheers,
Luc
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Re: New village build near Udon

Postby ajarnudon » Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:54 am

Hi Luc
Sorry to take so long. Yes, they house the mains cables - the distribution box will be just inside the front door of the garage.
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Re: New village build near Udon

Postby ajarnudon » Thu Apr 05, 2018 6:30 pm

Well, things have been very busy recently - firstly at work in BKK, and for the last 2/3 weeks, on the building site in the village. I am on holiday until mid-May, and this is my prime building time before the wet season. A lot of progress has been made, at the expense of a large dent in the bank balance. Over the past couple of weeks we have averaged 7-8 workers onsite per day, The priority remains to get the garage to lockup stage so we have a secure storage area for tools and materials. Today the garage/laundry/workshop (with toilet) has reached 85/90% completion.
Here is a quick pictorial update on work during March.
~02.jpg

The inner garage wall going up. The first three courses were backfilled with concrete and reinforced vertically every third core, as well as horizontally in the fourth (cut the webbing out of the tops of the blocks and laid D12 bar across before corefilling). Each core beside a post was reinforced full height in the same manner and reo tied into the post every second course above #4.
~2a.jpg

Garage ceiling going up.
~03.jpg

Fill in place, and laundry plumbing and power roughed in.
~04.jpg

Fabricating the reo 9mm mesh for the slab. Can't buy sheets of mesh in Thailand, so you weld up your own - my experience in Udon anyway.
~05.jpg

Start of the 44 sq m X 12 cm (= 5.5 cubes) pour. Reo in place supported by luk bun. 24 steng.
~06.jpg

Told the missus she was daft - whatever she planted wasn't going to grow there :lol: Kept it wet for three days - weather was perfect, never got over 29 degrees.
~07.jpg

One of two 2 cm control joints cut with a diamond saw in the 11 m slab after 36 hours. After two weeks I am very happy with the result. No signs of cracking, and a nicely finished surface - no powder. I am sure that the curing process is aided by having the roof up before the pour - will use this same strategy for the house proper.
OK, not allowed any more pics now, so will continue in episode 2.
Cheers, John.
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Re: New village build near Udon

Postby ajarnudon » Thu Apr 05, 2018 8:01 pm

March 2018, Episode 2
~08.jpg

Next we had the macro in - dug the holes for the ten central pillars for the house, and installed two septic tanks.
~09.jpg

One of the reo cages on luk bun at the bottom of the 1 m X 1 m X 1 m post holes. Minimum of 5 cms clearance from reo all round.
~10.jpg

Rendering the outer garage wall, inside and outside.
~11.jpg

Painting the guttering - suay suay.
~12.jpg

The rear of the garage houses my workshop, as well as the laundry and a toilet. As we had already poured the 40 X 40 cm footing for the rear wall, a toilet with an S-trap wouldn't do. We needed one with a P-trap (no pun intended) with an exit thru the back wall. Only ones we could find were a few 'American Standard' brand (made in Thailand) suites, which are usually used in multi-storey buildings. So we bought a THB 5K version, but when shopping we fell in love with this Chinese made suite (S-trap, one peice, low tank profile, dual-flush, soft close etc.) @ THB 2.4 K and bought it for the upstairs (in our split-level design) ensuite - and it came with a free wash basin! Haven't decided yet on the downstairs main bathroom toilet, but thinking that the Chinese one will win out (haven't poured footings there yet).
~13.jpg

There is a lot to describe in this picture. Firstly, this inner garage wall will have a 7 cm cavity between it and the main house southern wall. The bottom four courses of the house wall will duplicate those of the garage wall , with reinforcement etc. for load-bearing capacity. The breathing holes visible in this wall will be duplicated in the house wall to provide sub-floor ventilation under the pan poon floor in the house upper level (raised 80 cm). Our ladies did most of the block laying, and as these 15 cm blocks are extremely heavy, we pay them a loading of 10% whenever they work with these blocks. But the course the guys on the left are laying was just too heavy for the ladies. This course forms a bond beam (just like course #4, with the webbing cut out of the top of the blocks. However, to stop concrete simply falling thru the cores, we placed 26 blocks on a plastic sheet and filled the cores with 5-6 cms of concrete on the ground in the morning. In the afternoon, it had set enough to lay them in the 17th course, then the 12 mm steel bar was laid across the top, tied into the posts with epoxy and welded to the vertical reinforcing steel, after which the blocks were core filled with concrete. To my mind, this is the simplest, most cost-effective and efficient way to make a bond beam in a masonry wall.
Above this we went down to 9 cm blocks, the second course containing 18 glass blocks, and finally a cut block to fit flush with the house top plate (not in place at time of the picture).

More soon with an April update.
Cheers, John
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Re: New village build near Udon

Postby pipoz » Sat Apr 07, 2018 11:46 am

Hi John,

Looks like you bought new scaffold for the task

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Re: New village build near Udon

Postby ajarnudon » Sun Apr 15, 2018 10:19 pm

Hi Pipoz
Have had two sets all along, but as the build got higher, I bought another four sets, giving us a 2 x 3 or 3 x 2 capability. The welders will be working at 5 metres + above ground level welding the central top plates, rafters and battens, so the extra capacity was a must. I am pondering the safety issues which would never enter these guys minds (I doubt they have much experience in working at heights) - hard hats maybe, but that won't help if they break their back in a fall. Safety harnesses (they have never used before) would probably lead to an accident. The only thing I could be sure of is welding a temporary rail across the outside of each top section of scaffold at waist level.
The scaffolds are really quite cheap (THB 1200-1300 per set) - in fact, four wheels cost nearly as much as the scaffold they support. Job finished (bear in mind that this is a part time project for me, obviating rental) I will sell four sets, keeping two (with one set of wheels) for maintenance (cleaning, cobwebs, painting, light replacement, CCTV adjustment etc.).
Cheers, John
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