Door and window frames

Information about windows and doors.

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Re: Door and window frames

Postby jazzman » Tue Oct 28, 2008 4:45 pm

Yes, I have. Highest commercial premises quality. One of the few luxuries I could afford for my humble abode. No floor track - 100% suspended, and rock steady and quite heavy with the 6 mm tinted UV glass. The frames a are part of the construction.

If you are going to have sliding wooden doors, and if you want them to lock, you will have to ask your door manufacturer for his professional suggestion. It depends very much what your doors slide past, such as a matching fixed panel, or past a wall.

If it is a double sliding door, then they will but up to each other when closed. The aluminium frames are thick enough to conceal the locking mechanism when the doors are locked together. For wooden doors, you may need some exterior kind of latch. One solution is to ask in the doors department of the new HomePro on Mitraphap Rd. (just about opposite Big C).
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby thomas.fontaine » Tue Oct 28, 2008 5:57 pm

jazzman wrote: It depends very much what your doors slide past, such as a matching fixed panel, or past a wall.

Well, I first thought that door would slide past the wall, thus no frame, but I must admit I didn't spend enough time on this question since I now believe it would have been better if sliding door was butting the wall on the side where your locking system is. I think it's too late for me now, Pi Lek is already building the internal wall. This is one example where being on site would have allowed me to quickly make my mind and instruct the builder accordingly. Now, I don't want to take the risk of explaining something over the phone and Pi Lek understanding the opposite. So, I will have to find an alternate solution to add a locking system to the sliding door or no locking system at all.
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby Rick B » Wed Oct 29, 2008 8:19 pm

I'm not exactly sure how your sliding door(s) is/are arranged. But one way we've locked sliding doors, without actually using a lock, is to simply place a rod or stick laying over the floor area where the door moves when it is opened. You simply cut the stick or rod the width of the opening next to the closed door and wedge it into the space. With the rod or stick so laid, the door can not be slid open. If you have a double sliding door arrangement, then you could simply put a lock bolt through both doors where they overlap when they are closed.
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby thomas.fontaine » Wed Oct 29, 2008 9:17 pm

Rick B, that seems to be an easy solution. Do you have a picture of that as I don't really see where is your rod/stick?
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby pklongball » Thu Oct 30, 2008 2:57 pm

Check this out...

http://www.windowstick.com/NEWSITE/default.htm

Rather exotic from the old broom stick trick in the window/door track
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby jazzman » Sat Nov 01, 2008 9:18 am

pklongball wrote:Rather exotic...
yes, but a bit like a CrookLok for your steering wheel, a sort of 'after' solution.
This is what the mechanism for an aluminium door looks like;
sliding door lock 2.jpg
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sliding door lock.jpg
sliding door lock.jpg (7.42 KiB) Viewed 1752 times
If a wooden door is thick enough it might fit. The outside is locked with a standard cylinder-lock key. The inside has a knob. In the wall the door butts onto you could make a hole, and cover it with a neat brass or steel catch plate like this hole which is in the other sliding door.
catch plate.jpg
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby Rick B » Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:47 pm

Thomas, sorry I don't have a picture. But what pklongball has referenced looks like what I was referring to, except, as he says, a lot more exotic. See the pictures for the horizontal sliding window and apply the same technique to a horizontal sliding door. What Jazzman shows is the correct way to lock the sliding doors, at least one of them. Once you've locked the one door, the other door can either be jammed with the stick or locked to the other door (the one with the Jazzman referenced lock) by putting a bolt through both doors.
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby jazzman » Wed Nov 05, 2008 12:52 pm

The door without a lock has a built-in bolt which could also be used if the wooden door is thick enough. The bold drops into a hole in the floor. However, due to the design of the suspension rail, both doors come up against a hidden stop, and even if the non-locked door is not bolted, the doors cannot move in either direction if they are locked together by the locking mechanism in the previous posting. The system is fool proof. If you want to stop thieves smashing the glass, or smashing through a wooden door then you will of course have to think if somthing else.
bolt.jpg
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bolt_hole.jpg
bolt_hole.jpg (5.75 KiB) Viewed 1679 times
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby Sunpax » Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:10 pm

I 'v begin to sand and treat agains all little animals...and vanish all windows and door myself....but I ask me now ! is it not better to do after been installed ?

Is it better to do that before or after the windows and doors are on ?
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby Mike Judd » Fri Sep 16, 2011 2:34 pm

Does anyone know where to get Steel (Galv) door frames, standard sizes for internal doors. I would like to build them into the 75m.m. thick Q-Con walls.Also would like to hear from anyone out there who has built with Q-Con blocks (Hebler) All the walls are just in-fill panels not load bearing, as is the practice.
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby geordie » Fri Sep 16, 2011 3:52 pm

Even in the uk that would be a difficult request ? metal internal frames would not be a high priority in most places very specialist and galvanised as well so not something the local metal worker could knock up
Try a different angle if is security you are after a steel reinforcing dressed with a termite resistant hardwood timber
If its maintainance free Try and find a company that supplies office partitions they tend to
favour aluminium but you might even find steel
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby payebacs » Sat Feb 11, 2012 6:55 am

Aveena wrote:The door has two parts: one part is frame and second part is shutters.

Hi Aveena. Discussing if I may art for a moment, in art one gets a picture and a picture frame, and being more of an artist than a builder myself although there are I feel certainly large parrallels upon which once I've learnt enough I hope to build, I personally term the two parts a door and a door frame... not shutters. But, perhaps as I've stated I've still a way to go yet. I'm sure someone else can more valuably comment.
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby pipoz » Sat Apr 19, 2014 11:43 pm

Hi has anyone purchased timber windows and or timber doors from AusEco in Chang Mai

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Re: Door and window frames

Postby Klondyke » Sat Jun 21, 2014 10:45 am

I am not sure whether somebody raised before this topic: the usual Thai way how to install wooden frame windows.
They are widely available with teak or other wood frames, rectangular or rounded at top, mostly W.60xH.110cm, around 400Baht.

And the usual way how they are installed:
-window flaps to open outwards (they are secured against wind by a tight slide clamp, not needed a latch)
-bar grid in front of the windows towards inside (in order that it does not disturb the eyes of their neighbours :( )
-moskyto net inside the room (if outside, the neighbours would not find the windows very nice :shock:)

This is not very practical. When to open or shut the windows, first to open the moskyto net, then stick out your hand thru the bar grid (whilst scratching the arm), pull the window (it does not go very smoothly), latch the window flap against opening (and kamoy), finally shut the moskyto net and latch it again into correct postion (it does not fit always properly). :twisted:

Since this procedure is not very easy - and there is a number of windows to be open and shut every day for a good ventilation or insulating against the day heat - most of the Thai people do not get bother by the windows - the windows stay shut or open throughout whole year. Unless the windows are not accessible from outside. Besides, the windows wide open to outside, they will get a full shock by the weather - rain and sunshine.

First easy step to an improvement when buying such windows: instead to hinge them to the wall frame, you can make them sliding - sash windows. If 4 parts, about 240cm wide window, 2 parts fixed and 2 parts sliding. Then the bar grid can be outside and the moskyto net fixed as well - the net does not need to be moved, only when cleaning the windows (if ever :? ).

Then, you are free to shut and open the windows easily always from inside.
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Re: Door and window frames

Postby Klondyke » Sat Jun 21, 2014 10:57 am

To make the windows sliding: either you buy such roller with spring for embedding in the bottom and top member of the window frame, and a rail to lay down on the wall frame, where the wheels will drive on.
However, after some time the frame will get deformed by the strong weather influence and may jump off the rail. Easy way is to create a through at the bottom and top of the wall frame and let the window flap just slide within. A sufficient space is to be allowed for the width and height of the through, to consider a certain deformation anyway. And for inserting and removing the flap upwards.

So at the end of the day, you better consider to buy alu windows ready to built-in, you check in Thai Wasadu or Global House.
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