Self leveling concrete (internal)

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Self leveling concrete (internal)

Postby rovingdave » Sun Dec 04, 2011 7:15 am

Hi chaps.

This has been touched on but what has been written doesn't answer all my questions, so here's hoping.

My new builder informed me he cannot start for at least another two/three months so i'll be jumping in and doing as much as possible in the meantime.

1st off. After we lifted all the old broken tiles and knocked down the internal walls, the inside flooring is rough. Not bad condition wise really though.

But i'm going to have wooden flooring put down in two rooms and i need to level and smooth the floor in at least these two rooms.

1 - Any self leveling concrete brands / mixes anyone can recommend (buying in Pattaya). Also, do i really need to seal the existing floor, and if so any sealant recommendations?

2 - Also, the rest of the house flooring, again is rough. Would you recommend A) just tiling with 'mud' or B) leveling the floor off and then tiling with thinset? The two bathrooms were leveled using just normal concrete, then thninset and tiles laid on top of that.( Then half the tiles had to be re-lifted as the slope went in two directions in the main bathroom, neither of which was to the drain on first attempt, with my first lot of guys doing it)

Now, if i have read it right, some firms, like X-52 (and this is all from the internet) claim that after 48 hours, the self level medium is ok to carry on and lay tiles on. Does this also mean that the 'water vapour' release has stopped sufficiently for me to lay wooden blocks?

Any and all help appreciated as it has been quite a few years since i jumped in and got my hands dirty, although i have done quite a bit in my time.(if the bubble disappears to one side or the other it's flat right? ;-) )

Thanks

Dave B
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Re: Self leveling concrete (internal)

Postby geordie » Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:30 am

Being slightly medicated :roll: :roll: :roll: I can never remember the name of the company
RR (building nonthaburi pak kret) uses for his chemicals however :D i do know that they do a latex floor leveling compound on their website as well as a sealant now as to will the floor dry out that quick depends primarily on the thickness latex aplications are usually measured in mm so do solidify rapidly but not necisarily dry out (consult manufacturer) however i would say definately you will have to seal the floor against water before you apply any wood if its parquet flooring and a bitumen based adhesive usually a couple of days drying time and a thinned out coat of bitumen as a primer/sealant then plenty of it under the blocks but if you can get a bitumen based sealant i would go for it before you lay the wood and a good coat of it obviously you take into acount how you intend the wood to be held to the floor and what will you do later if you decide to remove the wood and tile ?? you might have hassle geting tiles to stick on a bitumen surface Tile adhesive (thinfix ? ) is better than sand and cement usually although i have to admit the only build i did was in the sticks so sand and cement was used but also tile adhesive is less forgiving so the surface has to be pretty straght to start with or you can end up with a lot af adhesive being used as a filler :( then the tiles can sink? :( just what you dont want Start with a long straight edge and see how deep the dips are before you decide

Caution these are merely my opinions and open to discusion :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :mrgreen:
my comments may be wrong but never deliberately
If it aint broke, dont fix it
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Re: Self leveling concrete (internal)

Postby Roger Ramjet » Sun Dec 04, 2011 9:16 am

rovingdave and geordie,
Lanko, the company I use is Lanko. Here's their site in Australia http://www.lanko.com.au/lanko/ All their products are available at HomePro, Thai Watsadu and other large suppliers of building materials in Thailand. Many of the mom and pop stores also stock their products.
The bonding liquid is Lanko 751 and it's the only number I remember as I used about 8-10 drums of the stuff, which is brilliant.
I also use Sika products which I have found to be on par with Lanko in some areas.
The best method to level the floor is by taking out the old concrete, setting a level that you want the concrete to end at, then using a large straight edge (with bubble) and plumb lines. It takes a long time to get it right. The other solution is to buy a laser leveler (I'll find the photo of what they look like and they cost about 1,000 baht)) then all you have to do is set it up and mark the walls. To get the slope right, once you have the level on all four walls, just mark a few cms under or over the marks you have already placed, depending on which way you want the slope (for bathrooms).
If you are using the Lanko or Sika leveling cement mix make sure you bond the old to the new and seal it after it has dried (about 48 hours). They do have faster drying products (2-6 hours) but these tend to be a little brittle especially in high usage areas and may crack or splinter. Make sure the glue you use for the tiles or wooden floor is compatible with each different product used.
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Re: Self leveling concrete (internal)

Postby rovingdave » Sun Dec 04, 2011 5:34 pm

Hi, don't care if i appear thick (stupid) or not, but is there any way to simplify the answers in this site?

I have now read a very large amount on the site, but as regards many things, i am still none the wiser. Point of fact being, and this is typical of expats in Thailand i am sorry to say, but when someone, to the best of their ability, tries to help another, then many pop out the woodwork and try and put that person down or try and 'show off' their own supposed knowledge, with absolutely no basis of fact, whatsoever. Usually these people use 'internet based facts'. I can google as good as anyone, but it doesn't mean i am any the wiser at the end.

This, does not in any way help those of us wishing to learn from those who have been there before. and i really do wish to learn (re-learn). I may look/be stupid today, but perhaps tomorrow, after a little experiance, i can then help another. Or at the very worst, say, "Christ don't do that! I did and it went so bad!!!!".

Is it at all possible to ask a question and have an A,B,C childlike answer?

For example - i need to level a rough (although the floor is not bad condition) floor and lay some wood parquet.

It would be so nice for someone to say, Hi Dave, try this......

A - Clean the floor properly with wire brush and water
B - seal with XYZ after abc time
C - mix up 'Bill Smith's super leveler and pour into your sections
D - after X hours, seal with xxx sealant and then do what you need to do man.

and if that doesn't work, then Christ knows!

I can live with that kind of advice. please. can anyone help me with a step by step, floor leveling project that isn't exactly brain surgery?

Best regards

Dave B
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Re: Self leveling concrete (internal)

Postby geordie » Sun Dec 04, 2011 6:39 pm

Not wanting to worry you but any thing you read may be of no realavance anyway

Try being more descriptive of the problem with a picture maybe to start with you have removed walls and the floor is rough you need to level it to lay wooden flooring
This could be construed as you want to fill in the gaps where the walls are missing
The floors are different heights because previously they were different rooms
When the floors were put in they were put in with a slope
you have seen the problem we have not

Forums are a group of individuals with differing opinions you will get differing answers
Product branding varies from country to country and is personal preference
silca is known to me in the uk as a good product Lanco widely available over there is a "i have heard of product" But RR swears by it and his builder who apears better than average recomended it (i think)

the floor is rough so is sandpaper is the point i am making
Latex is measurable in thickness of aplication in MM

Running a straight edge will give YOU an average of the peaks and troughs you need to tell us what the heght difference is anything too deep the latex will break up it will go off on top not underneath then when underneath goes off you will get a cobweb of cracks

So if we answer ()A brush the floor making sure you get rid of loose debris
()B Apply the latex leveling solution with regard to the manufacturers
instuction for thickness x i layer some products you can apply a couple
()c Seal the floor to prevent damp (this could be a plastic membrane/
a bitumen paint a silicone liquid
() The parquet floor adhesive could well incorperate such a seal as in trowel
it out so it forms a membrane
any slight undulations will be taken up by the parquet which you will sand smooth and level
so the above may be a waste of time

Dave try a picture its worth a page of writing we are trying to help
my comments may be wrong but never deliberately
If it aint broke, dont fix it
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Re: Self leveling concrete (internal)

Postby John » Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:26 pm

Boonthavorn Pattaya sell Weber products including self levelling compound sealers and primers
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Re: Self leveling concrete (internal)

Postby otis-a » Mon Dec 05, 2011 2:46 am

sorry to pipe in here but when i suffer ...
This is 4sure a case of believe it when u c it.
The best fix i know is mr lawn- my spelling of how i hear them say his name- wify father's building partner- he is... may i say; ''smak on''-
here is described what i saw him do here:
1. Select ur start point- with cement nail into floor
2. Select ending point- ditto
3. Mark the grade- or lack there of- so desired twixt 2 said points- this is done by fastening blue chalk string to said nails and adjust by spirit level- if so needed- twang it to wall for the mark.
4. Repeat to other walls- this makes the outline of what is an imiginary plane
5. The easy part is over; & here is the craft in craftsman part- fill in said plane - to do this he also used a spirit level with great skill and effort. And for that, i gladly pay, as these old desk worn bones could not hack being on 4's for 8 or 12 hours. Voila a nice smooth floor.
summary- no sub for skilled labor- all hats off for Mr. Lawn! Well pleased with his floor work at Griffith House. Best wishes in finding your Mr. Lon as he only works local, the better to tend his ricefield and hunting.
where to park dog when in town? A barking lot... :-)))
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Re: Self leveling concrete (internal)

Postby rovingdave » Mon Dec 05, 2011 8:59 pm

Hi all,

I shall start with an apology. Last night( after getting back from a month at sea) i was guilty of being 'drunk in charge of a computer'. From what started me thinking early on in the day that perhaps this site was a bit too technical for me (or at least some of the answers), to me becoming an insulting, stupid wanker, i can only say sorry.

MGV, thank you so much for your PM. Geordie, your time is most appreciated. RR, well. you need to calm down a bit to try and help us mere mortals.

Again though, chaps. I am so sorry for being a twat last night. This site is incredibly helpful, and i can only promise not to be such a tit again.

Gentlemen,

Dave B
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Re: Self leveling concrete (internal)

Postby geordie » Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:41 pm

Dave i think we are all big enough to get over it We do try and keep it simple"" but how simple ""can get insulting we have no wish to insult anyone so we tend to assume some prior knowledge ? not always the correct thing to do
of course the main issue as always is terminology when some one says the floor is rough !! how rough is it without that we can in all honesty only guess ? if you want abc answers not an issue but all we know is you are doing a refurb so can we start again maybe a picture of the floor in question and a better description of the rough and what you want to acheive with it
ask abc questions and see what pops out next time
my comments may be wrong but never deliberately
If it aint broke, dont fix it
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