Problems with plastering use tiger plus cement

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Problems with plastering use tiger plus cement

Postby idcpeter » Thu Feb 07, 2008 9:22 pm

I have the following problems:

After the builder plastering the blocks 2 cm with tiger plus cement there are at the next day a lot of cracks at the plastering. Also the blocks/joint are still I can't see. They shining trough the plastering.

Kindly give me same advice ASAP.

Thanks,

Peter
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Postby dozer » Fri Feb 08, 2008 7:06 am

What type of blocks were they? If they were QCON blocks a special cement specifically for QCON must be used.

With regular cinder blocks two rough coats must be applied prior to a final coat if you don't want the blocks outline to show through. Each coat must be allowed to dry (eg. 3 - 4 days between coats). If you are painting anyway (as opposed to using color pigment within the render) normally two coats are applied at around the same time. A first coat is first applied and then after it sets up the final coat is applied about 1/2 hour later. Sometimes the blocks showing through can indicated an inadequate render depth, but not always, as it depends on the moisture within the blocks. If you watch them render, the render should be at least about 1 cm thick.

The cracking is normally not related to the cement you are using, but directly to the skill of the craftsmen applying it. Any good craftsman should be apply to render with a minimum of surface cracking, say one or two small cracks for every 2.5 meter section.
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Postby idcpeter » Fri Feb 08, 2008 8:03 am

Thanks a lot! The craftsman apply the coat 2 cm in one time! What is the right technic: first coat 0,5 cm, second coat 1 cm and the final coat 0,5 cm or?
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Postby dozer » Fri Feb 08, 2008 8:13 am

1st coat, then wait about 30 minutes for set up, then last coat on top of this. Normally only two coats. Thickness is between 1/2 to 1 cm per coat.
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Postby idcpeter » Fri Feb 08, 2008 8:27 am

Hi Dozer, I don't understand. Before you say each coat have to dry for 3 - 4 days and now you say after first coat 30 min. and apply the second coat?
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Postby dozer » Fri Feb 08, 2008 11:29 am

Yes, glad you asked me to clear up the confusion.

There is one method of render which is not common but I like it a lot. It is where color pigment is mixed in with the cement during the render process. This means that no paint is necessary on your wall surface and the look is very artistic 'hand made' look. It is being used on a lot of higher end buildings etc. WHEN USING THIS method on a perimeter wall made of cinder block, one must use a SPECIAL process to ensure that the block outline does not show through. This is the three coat process I described. You can also use this process if for some reason you want to guarantee that the blocks don't show through.

If you are going to paint your wall this does not apply, since paint will cover up the block outlines. You would simply use the second method I discussed which is one render coat and let it set up, then come on with the second coat. This is how almost all craftsmen will normally do it anyway, with no instruction.
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Postby idcpeter » Fri Feb 08, 2008 11:41 am

Thanks a lot for your infos! Greet job and this help me a lot!

Questions:

1) If you use the tree coat process this prevent it better for cracks then the common coat process?

2) When I paint the wall, the paint color will cover up the cracks or before I paint I have to fill the cracks with acrylic or silicon?

Thanks a lot again for your advice![/b]
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Postby jazzman » Fri Feb 08, 2008 2:59 pm

Is there any particular reason for posting this enquiry on two threads:
quote="jazzman"]
idcpeter wrote:I have the following problems:

After the builder plastering the blocks 2 cm with tiger plus cement there are at the next day a lot of cracks at the plastering. Also the blocks/joint are still I can't see. They shining trough the plastering.

Kindly give me same advice ASAP.

Thanks,

Peter


You will always see a damp outline of the blocks for a while, this is nothing unusual.

The cracks are due both to the wrong cement being used and the plaster being applied too thick in one go. Boon Sua (Tiger Brand cement) is normal cement for brickwork and general purpose. For the rendering (plastering) boon chaap should be used which cntains a plasticiser to prevent shrinkage, add better bonding, and a certain degree of water resistance. It is about the same price as the other cements.

In the unlikely event that boon chaap is not available and Sua has to be used, a liquid plasticiser additive must be mixed in. There is the ATB brand, but better is SIKA brand. It is not expensive - about 100 baht per litre, and only one capfull per mix is needed: 0.43 litres for every 100 kg of cement powder.[/quote]
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Postby idcpeter » Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:09 pm

Sorry for post it in two places!
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Postby idcpeter » Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:23 pm

For the Tiger Plus the company SCI don't recommend liquid plasticizes additive;

Additives for plastering work are not required. Costs and errors from the use of additives are reduced.

:?
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Postby jazzman » Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:31 pm

The solution is then to err on the side of caution and use boon chaap of any brand which is specifically designed for plastering. I only use proper boon chap to be absolutely sure. I don't think there is any difference in quality between the different brands. As Dozer mentioned, many of the faults occur from inexperienced application.
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Postby idcpeter » Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:42 pm

SCI Tiger Plus is specialist for boon chap.

See here:

http://www.poonthai.com/eng/products/gr ... _plus.html

I don't know what you talk about???????

Which proper boon chap do you mean?
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Postby dozer » Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:53 pm

tiger plus cement
YES this is special cement for the render coat. You shouldn't need any additive with this, since you are paying extra for the additive to be pre mixed.

2) When I paint the wall, the paint color will cover up the cracks or before I paint I have to fill the cracks with acrylic or silicon?
There are two types of cracks, fine surface cracks which result from inexperienced application, not wetting the surface before hand, and a host of other reasons. Any normal paint can cover these.

There are also structural cracks which are indicative of other problems.

In any event, no silicon or other sealant is required. If the cracks show through paint, buy an elastomeric paint such as TOA 7 in 1, which will cover cracks and all.
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