coolthaihouse.com

by **gliffaes** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:01 am

Due to pain forgot to mention electric an water installation, here is the water pipe about 16 inches down, difficult to go deeper with gorund like mine.
Hdpe pipe then covered in sand for 6 inches then the soil.
Electric is a similar depth.
Before u ask its not straight due to big boulders along the way, as in so big the 320 makro couldnt shift them

by **geordie** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 4:27 am

thats why the pipe is flexible i supose

by **gliffaes** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 5:57 pm

Im curious why they need a lintel across the whole of the wall in this shot. Would it not be as good to do a lintel maybe just 18 inches either side of the window as they do in the UK or is it beacsue the blocks arent load bearing .
Also why do I need a full lintel under the window? Just curious

by **sirineou** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:51 pm

A small lintel extending over the sides of the window would probably be ok,especialy since there are only a couple of courses of block over the window,
But.. haaa there is always a but :lol:

the wall would not be as strong supporting horizontal loads, ie it could be more easily be pushed out or in
and if you used a small lintel you will still need to fill the space with something to maintain the even spacing of the block.

by **gliffaes** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:54 pm

sirineou wrote:A small lintel extending over the sides of the window would probably be ok,especialy since there are only a couple of courses of block over the window,
But.. haaa there is always a but
the wall would not be as strong supporting horizontal loads, ie it could be more easily be pushed out or in
and if you used a small lintel you will still need to fill the space with something to maintain the even spacing of the block.

Ah yes BUT the wall is not there to support anything as it s supposed to be non load bearing, the only support the lintel does is to stop blocks above the window squashing it. If there was another storey there would be another beam across the top of that wall again taking the load. The roof steel is supported by the columns.
Also why do we need one again full length under the window??
The sides do have a concrete lintel its just hidden inbetween the blocks and also if i needed a good fastening the blocks really arent very strong for that.
Walls with no windows ( and they are double and tied together) have no lintels so maybe its a case of they only really do this and need this on single block walls to give strength as like you said to stop them being pushed out/in. Single walls are pretty weak
Interesting anyway

by **sirineou** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 8:22 pm

Like you said, to stiffen the wall up and prevent lateral movement
,keep in mind that when you have a window in the middle of the wall, it is like having a huge hole in the wall, the window does not provide any structural strength, horizontally, or vertically.
a small lentil will mitigate the vertical strength deficiency , but will do very little in mitigating the horizontal strength deficiency.
Hence the full length lintel.
If I had a full length wall with out a window that was very long and or very high, and was using beeze block such as the one they use in Thailand(very thin) I would still consider using a stiffening horizontal beam in the midle of the wall.
A double cavity wall with straps between the outside wall and inside wall is a different issue.and might not require a sriffening horizontal beam.

by **payebacs** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 4:54 am

gliffaes wrote:
payebacs wrote:The house looks great Gliffaes. 450k... I'm hoping to build slightly bigger (12 x 6) and for less so probably need to start contemplating exactly where these reductions in price are going to come from.

You could use single block walls and bigger overhangs..... personally wouldnt use aac blocks... ask for a slump test.......Roof steel , shop around.....steel colorbond type roof.....do it yourself with workers.....Shop around....Boonthavorn is expensive.....be on site ALL day.......never be afraid to tell them its wrong.

Thanks gliffaes. The roof does seem quite majestic. Just the tiles must set you back a bit. Single block, hard to say. Perhaps save for longer and do it the 7K m2 guideline way. not sure. Is it okay to build in stages ie. foundations, uprights and slab first followed by a year break or will all that sun and rain be too much. If you could build in year-long-gap stages what would those stages be? Roof, walls? Or is it unavoidably better to build all in one?

by **gliffaes** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 2:30 pm

payebacs wrote:
gliffaes wrote:
payebacs wrote:The house looks great Gliffaes. 450k... I'm hoping to build slightly bigger (12 x 6) and for less so probably need to start contemplating exactly where these reductions in price are going to come from.

You could use single block walls and bigger overhangs..... personally wouldnt use aac blocks... ask for a slump test.......Roof steel , shop around.....steel colorbond type roof.....do it yourself with workers.....Shop around....Boonthavorn is expensive.....be on site ALL day.......never be afraid to tell them its wrong.

Thanks gliffaes. The roof does seem quite majestic. Just the tiles must set you back a bit. Single block, hard to say. Perhaps save for longer and do it the 7K m2 guideline way. not sure. Is it okay to build in stages ie. foundations, uprights and slab first followed by a year break or will all that sun and rain be too much. If you could build in year-long-gap stages what would those stages be? Roof, walls? Or is it unavoidably better to build all in one?

I think Id try and do it all at once unless the local labour is readily available. Once you find some half decent blokes you need to keep them.
If I was to split it up id get to the roof stage ie roof on, Id be worried that all manor of life would then move into the roof though such as birds although that cheap green netting fastened up inside would keep em out.
You could do it for less than 7k if you dont hire a builder like I did, however he did supply me with a concrete vibrator, floor power float all timber , makro etc etc so all in al it wasnt too bad a deal.
The roof tiles (I think) well you can choose the cheapest colour and ALL homemart stores ( cpac tile distributor) have different prices and you can call several and haggle between them, just say you got them for 11 baht and call another and say 10.5 etc.
Just use double block on hot walls or design with a bigger roof overhang so no sun hits the walls.
I chose my tiles as they were the lightest cpac colour to reduce heat build up price I think was about 12 ish baht each.
They still get hot but not as hot as the other colours.

by **payebacs** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 1:06 am

Having already now brick, block and mortar to your name in thailand visiting the UK this time round must have felt different to all previous arrivals. I mean if all else fails you've a house already!

by **gliffaes** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 3:56 pm

payebacs wrote:Having already now brick, block and mortar to your name in thailand visiting the UK this time round must have felt different to all previous arrivals. I mean if all else fails you've a house already!

Well in some ways except its for the Sister in law, we also have a condo in Bangkok etc so its not like Im homeless.
Ill be very relieved when the main house concrete structure is done, after this the rest for me is pretty easy but I need the concrete triangle shape done well as its the main strength to the house.
Once I finally get some drawings Im going to offer it out to tender to a few companies but only the concrete part.

by **MGV12** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 4:10 pm

gliffaes wrote: so its not like Im homeless.

In which case whatever you do don't compromise your dream.

Many of us like to think that if the house we built is not right we'll build another ... life doesn't always play the game the way we'd like it to ... neither will our partner as it's stressful for them ... or you might just decide yourself that the current one is good enough. So take the time to get it done right then maybe it will be good enough.

by **fredlk** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 4:29 pm

MGV12 wrote:Many of us like to think that if the house we built is not right we'll build another ...

Speak for yourself! This IS the house and so everything has to be perfect ...... on paper at least. :lol:

by **gliffaes** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:46 pm

The main house will DEFINITELY be the last house I ever do and so far Ive gutted 2 houses in the UK, however this did earn me a tidy sum when I sold at the start of the housing crash...................just in the nick of time.
The next folk into my last house amazingly gutted it again, spent £40000 on an extension then advertised it at £220000 slowly as the market collapsed it came down , first to 210k then 200k then 190k and last time I looked 180k which is what I sold it them for. I paid 40k hahaha
It never sold and they are still in there.
The wife isnt worried how long the main house takes and for me getting it right is all that matters. Slow but sure........hopefully.

by **gliffaes** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:46 pm

by **gliffaes** » Thu Jul 19, 2012 4:18 am

Stumbled upon this today and was staggered, great to see someone else has copied this design in Australia, not only that but using google earth i can go down the road where it is and see it in the construction process. They have mainly used TIMBER not concrete
Fascinating.
Good to see some of the things I decided to do they have done here such as the colorbond roof, although i dont like the trunkated ends and they have made the whole house smaller and slid a garage onto the end.
Oddly still called "aqualina"
Great as now i can see how a colorbond roof would look and though in the wrong colour it looks great, also good to see a better glass layout which i planned.
Google streetview link here

https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Avoca+St ... 34,,0,12.7