Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby pattayapope » Tue Sep 06, 2011 8:18 am

Roger

As a general rule of thumb 1.5 mm for lighting circuits (10 A breaker), 2.5 mm for power (20 A breaker), 4 mm for water heaters (size to suit heater max 32 A), 6 mm for electric cookers (45 A breaker). AC depends on size but usually 2.5 mm cable is sufficient.

You can use 1 mm for lighting but for extra safety and short circuit conditions 1.5 is better, make sure you buy good brand electrical wire as there are some real iffy brands available like "ANT", the quality of the insulation and copper is not up to standard. The brand I used is Thai Yazaki.

Below is a link to a cable sizing program which seems quite good and easy to use

http://www.cablesizer.com/
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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby Roger Ramjet » Tue Sep 06, 2011 4:57 pm

pattayapope,
Thanks for the info, that's what my builder had written down today. We are going to HomePro tomorrow as they probably have the Thai Yazaki cable. My builder made the same mistake as you, he had written 1 roll of 6mm for electrical cooker.... except I don't have an electric cooker, I have a Siemens Gas oven with gas burners, so a line was drawn through that. I have actually bumped the lighting up to 1.5 even though we have only 14 amp down-lights (CFLs), better to be safe than sorry there. We are going to use 4 mm for the water heater and probably for the air conditioners, even though they will be the small ones because of the superblock and insulation. Thank you for the site, now I know what should be what, I just have to try and understand mm and cm and then change them to inches and feet. I'll probably stick with nit noi, bigger nit noi and large nit noi.

The rest of the Colorbond roof/sides gets put on/around tomorrow, so I'll take photos then. The ground floor is just about complete with double superblock and the electrician is laying all the cable and PVC it will run in. Photos on that tomorrow too.
The welders are making the metal railing/fence that will go around the second floor veranda and also on top of the garage. Photos on that when they have progressed further than they have. The fence will have Conwood or Sherawood as the slats.
The pool people have been working for two days straight cutting rebar, pumping out the cesspit and getting in the road, so they probably won't show tomorrow, so they'll have to pump it out all over again. Photos on that when they have done something constructive.
There are people everywhere, all doing something for a change....mostly annoying the builder's workers or getting in their road.
The superblock for the second floor should start tomorrow. We have ordered another 1,200 through the Q Con agent who was on site today. We have also ordered the special render cement (140 bags) through him as Thai Watsadu can't supply as quickly. The "chicken" wire is now on site and they'll start fixing it to the walls shortly before the rendering.
The aluminum window/door people are putting in a quote (found by my wife) and the builder's aluminum window/door people are also quoting at the same time. As I said, bloody people everywhere all doing something. More on that when I get the quotes.
That's about it, which is enough thank you very much.... what a menagerie.
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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby MGV12 » Tue Sep 06, 2011 5:33 pm

Roger Ramjet wrote:That's about it, which is enough thank you very much.... what a menagerie.


Strange and diverse indeed Roger .... be resolute; the end is there somewhere.

Don't ask.

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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby Max&Bee-in-CM » Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:12 pm

Roger Ramjet wrote:Photos on that tomorrow too.
The welders are making the metal railing/fence that will go around the second floor veranda and also on top of the garage. Photos on that when they have progressed further than they have. The fence will have Conwood


How are you attaching the posts to the concrete floor? I am thinking of welding a bottom 2x2 metal runner that goes all around the balcony, this will be encased in the concrete pour, and the metal rails welded to this before the pour.
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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby Roger Ramjet » Wed Sep 07, 2011 5:58 am

Max and Bee,
We have metal plates that will be bolted into the concrete with Dyna bolts.
Now the reason : At the townhouse we live in, the previous owners added a veranda and metal roof. They had the builder sink all the metal supports for the roof into the concrete (which is the way you may be doing it), however after a few years of constant rain on the veranda, the substandard paint used, and the fact the supports were sunk into what is a tiled concrete flower bed, which all added to rust, lots of rust, so that all the metal poles supporting the roof had to be replaced, along with most other metal that was exposed and it's an ongoing saga as I find new rust spots.
The solution is all the steel will be bolted into the concrete using metal plates and Dyna bolts. If the bolts rust (highly unlikely as they are rust proofed), then all I'll have to do is replace the bolts and not the fence and it will be a simple job, unlike the current situation which requires cleaning out the flower bed of soil, cutting the rusted metal off at ground level, concreting over the hole after cleaning out all the rusted metal, then plating over the top of the new concrete. It was either that or taking the whole thing down and starting from scratch.
It should be okay doing it your way Max, but it will have to be painted continuously like the Sydney Harbor Bridge.... and the worse spot will be just inside the concrete if air can get to it.
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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby Max&Bee-in-CM » Wed Sep 07, 2011 6:55 am

Roger Ramjet wrote:Max and Bee,
We have metal plates that will be bolted into the concrete with Dyna bolts.


Thanks Roger, excellent point I did not consider the rust factor. My next question is, will you be making the metal plates or angled brackets? I have found it impossible to find any sort of metal brackets here, as in the 90 degree angled once with a while in both sides, one hole to screw into the bottom concrete, one hole to screw (or dont need hole will weld) to the vertical post. Thanks.
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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby Roger Ramjet » Wed Sep 07, 2011 7:10 am

Max and Bee,
My builder went to the nearest metal shop and had them cut-up a steel plate into 6" by 2" sections. There will be two holes for the Dyna bolts at each after the plate is welded to the base of the upright. I'll try and take photos today after my trip to HomePro.... if the welders are that far advanced.
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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby Max&Bee-in-CM » Wed Sep 07, 2011 8:59 am

Roger Ramjet wrote:Max and Bee,
My builder went to the nearest metal shop and had them cut-up a steel plate into 6" by 2" sections. There will be two holes for the Dyna bolts at each after the plate is welded to the base of the upright. I'll try and take photos today after my trip to HomePro.... if the welders are that far advanced.


Yes thanks, photos would be great, i will attempt to rig up similar.
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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby geordie » Wed Sep 07, 2011 2:14 pm

Rodger i am trying to post a link to some chemical fixing info i posted awhile ago
The reason being chemfixing the bolts / studding into the concrete puts less stress on the concrete and at the same time will stop water seeping down the fixing and rotting it away
If you can find a bit of stainless threaded rod and use that you will never ever have a problem
Your builder seems to be more with the program than most so may have seen it used or even used it
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1419&p=18780&hilit=chemical+fixings#p18780
my comments may be wrong but never deliberately
If it aint broke, dont fix it
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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby Roger Ramjet » Wed Sep 07, 2011 5:17 pm

Geordie,
Thanks, I recall the chemical fixes, however, as I might extend the roof of the garage upwards we are even leaving the exposed rebar on the columns and just using the Dyna bolts to hold down the fence. You'll remember we used the power float on the roof of the garage, just in case I get the urge to extend upwards.

Very busy day, the builder and I went to HomePro and bought them out of most Thai Yazaki electrical cable. I also purchased many more Haco double and triple outlet sockets. For 70 to 80 baht each I will never, ever be short of outlets anywhere in the house. In the lounge room alone there are 12 on just one wall and that doesn't count the other wall which has another 8 if we don't slip in a triple or two. I also purchased single and double switches... a lot more than I had, where they'll go I have no idea, but we'll find a spot or two. I had intended using a 6 outlet Safe-T-Cut board in the garage, but I bought an 8 instead. They must have had a run on them, I was in there just two days ago and they had three then, but today they were all gone. No problem, 8 it is and with the other two boards of 10 each I shouldn't run out. The total for all the electrical wires, a whole heap of Haco switches and outlets came to just under 30,000 which included the 8 outlet Safe-T-Cut. The most expensive Haco power outlets were the double ones (10) with the on/off switches at 170 baht each. It would cost a whole lot less for a small house. All the switches and power outlets have an earth that will go to the boards.
One thing I did find out was that Stiebel Eltron hot water systems only have 1.5 mm wiring. I was assured this was normal for them and they did not require 4 mm 6 mm or 8 mm. We'll put in 2.5 mm just in case. The same with the Mitsubishi air conditioners, they also only require 2.5 mm at the maximum. The wonders of new electronics. I just hope my electrical bill reflects the lowered consumption.
The pool builders were here for the third day straight... with an additional team who immediately set about reinforcing the pool base slab, or where it will go eventually. They even had a supervisor and the "engineer" with them.
The welders were welding... photos for Max later.
Colorbond arrived with the sides, and a different crew started fixing it all into place, and in the nick of time as it started pouring shorty after they had finished.
The "head" of the rendering crew arrived with his wife and got stuck into the garage straight away. Three more renders arrive on Friday or Saturday.
The ground floor is almost complete with double superblock and the foreman will start on the upstairs next week.
Some photos:
Attachments
roof with sides on.jpg
Roof with the sides on
pool finally being worked on.jpg
Pool finally being worked on and new reinforcing going in
All workers.jpg
Many trucks, many workers and all working too
all sealed up.jpg
Sides and roof all sealed
colorbond workers putting the sides on.jpg
Colorbond workers putting the sides on
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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby Roger Ramjet » Wed Sep 07, 2011 5:24 pm

More photos:
Attachments
To be joined here.jpg
The plates will be welded here, then bolted into the concrete with Dyna bolts
plates waiting to be cut in half.jpg
Plates for the steel around the garage roof waiting to be cut after being drilled
lounge outlets.jpg
Lounge outlets
dining room outlets.jpg
Dining room outlets
corner straps.jpg
Superblock corner straps
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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby MGV12 » Wed Sep 07, 2011 5:26 pm

Remind me of the dimensions of your pool Roger.

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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby Roger Ramjet » Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:49 pm

MGV12,
It will be just 6 metres by 3 metres. I take it you saw the 30 ton damper this time?
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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby MGV12 » Thu Sep 08, 2011 6:45 am

Roger Ramjet wrote:MGV12,
It will be just 6 metres by 3 metres. I take it you saw the 30 ton damper this time?


That's a good size ... your workers must be quite tall as they make it look smaller .... hence the question.

Almost exactly the same surface area as the pond extension I'm being told ... don't ask :roll:

Yes I'm glad you took my advice and chose the transclucent damper.

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Re: Building in Nontharburi/Pak Kret

Postby Roger Ramjet » Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:05 am

MGV12,
By now they could make it any size they liked, I just want to see it finished, it's the only setback I've had. The people we bought the pool tiles from have nearly given up on them and all they want to do is deliver the tiles, which is all we want now.
Please note, I didn't ask twice. Ask about what MGV12?
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