New House Construction in Sam Chuk, Suphanburi

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Re: New House Construction in Sam Chuk, Suphanburi

Postby Rick B » Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:10 pm

Tung, I have plain dirt in the crawl space. The height of my first floor is 115 cm above grade. So the height of the crawl space is probably a few cms more than 1 meter, except where the first floor beams are, which are 40cms deep. So under these beams, the height is only about 60cms. I have one opening with a door in the outer wall of the crawl space for access into the crawl space, should I ever need to get in. As far as a pest control system, I have screens behind the various ventilation openings in the walls, to prevent "things" from crawling or flying into the crawl space. I also injected a chemical into the dirt around the inner perimeter of the crawl space to mitigate future termites, which is typically what we do in the USA. If, in the future, I ever need to re-inject more chemicals, someone will have to crawl in the crawl space to do this. I do not have an injection system of piping, etc. So far, I have not had a problem with either moisture, odor, or pests. I hope this answers your questions.
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Re: New House Construction in Sam Chuk, Suphanburi

Postby oneday » Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:39 pm

Hello Rick,

I know this is a old thread, but I see you are still active on the board so hopefully I'll get an answer.

If the answers to my questions were in your thread then I apologize as I must have missed it.

1. Was your land once rice paddies? If so, did you have to fill it?
3. I suppose the decision to use piles was easy for you. I'm reading where it's either do piles, which is the best, but most expensive way or do something like 1-meter square footers down about 1-meter or more. Can you explain your thinking on this? Was it solely to raise the house without fill and get a crawl-space at the same time or because it's the most sound engineering wise? I'm also reading about floating foundations, but I'm not sure about these either.
4. Did you figure out the cost difference %-wise between piles and footer construction? It doesn't seem like it would be too much more.
5. Do the pre-stressed concrete panels set on an inner lip on each beam and so are flush with the beam after installing them or do they sit on top of the beams and butt up against each other from section to section?
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Re: New House Construction in Sam Chuk, Suphanburi

Postby Rick B » Sun Dec 04, 2011 3:54 pm

Hi Oneday,

Here are my responses to your questions:

1. Land was originally a rice paddy and I filled it with about 1 meter of dirt.
3. I did piles mainly because the house is a two-storey house and I wanted to make sure of no settling. Piling was also recommended by my architect and is typical for two-storey houses in this area. I also installed footers about 1 1/2 meters down from TOG, which put me into the original soil, not the fill dirt. I've never heard of anyone just doing piles, with no footers. I have, however, heard of many people who have just used footers with no piles, mostly on one-storey houses. As mentioned, the reason for using pilings and footers was for house stability. I didn't want to experience uneven sinking of the house resulting in cracks, or worse, a major catastrophe of the foundation or beams breaking.
4. Since I used piles and footers, there was no reason to consider the difference between the two. However, I should note that the cost of the installed piles was not that much in comparison to the overall cost of the house. we used 6 m. long piles and had solid contact on all of them.
5. The concrete floor panels set on top of the beams. There is no inner lip on each beam. The floor panels butt up against each other both on the long side and the short side, when there are adjacent panels. After the panels are laid, a 5 cm layer of cement is poured over then to finish the floor.

I hope that answers your questions.
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Re: New House Construction in Sam Chuk, Suphanburi

Postby oneday » Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:24 pm

Thanks for the answers. If I ever build it will be on the typical rice paddy, but I guess the question will really be what the soil conditions are, such as how deep before you reach something stable. Did you have a soil engineer help with deciding how big the piles should be or was that just left to your general engineer? It's nice to know you only had to use 6m piles whereas Roger Ramjet had to use "22" meter piles in the Bangkok area and his job just for that cost 600,000 if I remember right...big difference.

What kind of soil did you use?

Can I also assume that due to the nature of your build; piles, footers below original ground level, that you were not really concerned with compacting your soil because your house's stability, I would think, does not rely on your fill? However, I will ask, did you let the fill settle before starting any construction and if so for how long?

Yes, if I understand correctly you either do JUST footers like I think Max did or you do your footers on top of piles like you and some others have done.

I've been reading more on the planks through Roger Ramjet's build. I think I am coming to understand that process better thanks to his thread.
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Re: New House Construction in Sam Chuk, Suphanburi

Postby Rick B » Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:59 pm

No soil engineer. We just spoke with the local pile driving company and they advised us based on the knowledge of the local area. Our architect/engineer, who drew up the house plans, advised the size and quantity of the piles. We used regular dirt. I don't know what more to say. It wasn't very sandy and it didn't have much clay in it. You are correct, I wan't really concerned about the fill dirt compacting since I planned to use piles and footer into the original soil. Our dirt fill was done about one year prior to our beginning our house build. But that was more for reasons of when I was actually retiring more so than for reasons of letting the dirt compact by itself.

Let me know if you have any more questions.
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Re: New House Construction in Sam Chuk, Suphanburi

Postby Max&Bee-in-CM » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:57 pm

oneday wrote:
Yes, if I understand correctly you either do JUST footers like I think Max did or you do your footers on top of piles like you and some others have done.

I've been reading more on the planks through Roger Ramjet's build. I think I am coming to understand that process better thanks to his thread.


I heard my name mentioned.... I did think about piles as well - but local knowledge said it was not required, no houses here use piles. However local knowledge also said the area never floods, and
we had many days of flooding, so much for local knowledge.

However having said that, the house has been standing for 1 year already, (give or take a few months) there has been no cracks or settling whatsoever - i am happy to say even the render that
runs over the columns to bricks has not cracked anywhere - even after all the floods in the surrounding soil the last few months and that mini earthquake a month or two ago. So the footings we
did about 2.5m down seemed to have worked so far - throw salt over right shoulder, tap wood 3 times, spit over left shoulder...

So not sure about your particular requirements - but if you decide to use footings, make them a metre deeper and 20 or 30 cm thicker, costs a couple hundred dollars extra in concrete and rebar and
a few extra hours for the macro, but it would be worth it to dig the house in a little deeper.
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Re: New House Construction in Sam Chuk, Suphanburi

Postby geordie » Wed Dec 07, 2011 12:08 am

Max&Bee-in-CM wrote:
oneday wrote:


So not sure about your particular requirements - but if you decide to use footings, make them a metre deeper and 20 or 30 cm thicker, costs a couple hundred dollars extra in concrete and rebar and
a few extra hours for the macro, but it would be worth it to dig the house in a little deeper.


Good advice but be cautious not to colide with the water table get a hole down to chosen depth and a bit extra to establish where the water table is its ok to have footings in the table if the ground is strong enough (the water table seasonally changes) but its a problem pouring concrete into a hole full of water Here i used to stand on a spade both feet all 11 stone + the other 7 (for clothing) :roll: :roll: so 18 stone total if the spade only went a max of 2" good enough then building inspector would get a call never got a refusal
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Re: New House Construction in Sam Chuk, Suphanburi

Postby trader » Wed Dec 07, 2011 10:16 am

Rick B wrote:Hi Oneday,

Here are my responses to your questions:

1. Land was originally a rice paddy and I filled it with about 1 meter of dirt.
3. I did piles mainly because the house is a two-storey house and I wanted to make sure of no settling. Piling was also recommended by my architect and is typical for two-storey houses in this area. I also installed footers about 1 1/2 meters down from TOG, which put me into the original soil, not the fill dirt. I've never heard of anyone just doing piles, with no footers. I have, however, heard of many people who have just used footers with no piles, mostly on one-storey houses. As mentioned, the reason for using pilings and footers was for house stability. I didn't want to experience uneven sinking of the house resulting in cracks, or worse, a major catastrophe of the foundation or beams breaking.
4. Since I used piles and footers, there was no reason to consider the difference between the two. However, I should note that the cost of the installed piles was not that much in comparison to the overall cost of the house. we used 6 m. long piles and had solid contact on all of them.
5. The concrete floor panels set on top of the beams. There is no inner lip on each beam. The floor panels butt up against each other both on the long side and the short side, when there are adjacent panels. After the panels are laid, a 5 cm layer of cement is poured over then to finish the floor.

I hope that answers your questions.


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^very nice summary rick :D thks for sharing :D
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