Structured approach to pool chemistry, help please.

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Structured approach to pool chemistry, help please.

Postby Cameljockey » Wed Jan 11, 2017 10:43 am

HI all, I'm new to pool ownership but think I understand the basics, however starting a 55 cbm pool is proving confusing. I would ask in what order I should do things (maybe starting with stabilisation first?).

I shocked the slightly green water (delivered by truck) which came out lovely and clear, added salt as recommended by my local pool guy, but the salt chlorinator was defunct and no longer serviceable so have replaced that and it's showing good salt level.

I have a pool kit showing ppm readings of:

Cl 3 or greater (scale only goes to 3.0) - I re-shocked it 2 weeks ago as the Cl was gone and I had no chlorinator then, and I accidentally double-dosed.
I've turned the new chlorinator down to run at 60 pct to see how it goes, not exactly hot and sunny in Hua Hin these days....
pH 8 or greater (scale only goes to 8.0)
Hardness none
Total alkalinity 110
Cyanuric acid not registering (I added none so guess it's zero unless the shock had a small amount of stabiliser added?)

I added 3 litres of muriatic acid over 3 days before the recent rains and it didn't lower the pH at all, unless it has but is still over 8?.

As I said, the water (most of now, anyway) came by truck, but for interest my local water has pH 7.2 and TAlkalinity 470. So I guess it's very soft but still throws incredible sediments after boiling a pan of water, which I don't understand. Soap also doesn't make bubbles, but makes a soapy film on your hands.

Can someone advise me in what order should I attack things to go about balancing my pool, so I don't have my chlorinator working overtime all year?

Thanks kindly!
Cameljockey
 
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Re: Structured approach to pool chemistry, help please.

Postby Klondyke » Wed Jan 18, 2017 10:26 pm

My advice:
very first sorrow is about the green water, killing algae, growing enormously in the current bright sunshine. That can be cured and afterwards regularly maintained by copper sulphate, some 200 gr. on your 55 cbm, slightly previously dissolved in water bucket. Then every week some 100 gr. more when often vacuum cleaned and backwashed, so new water will be added.

If still not clear, add some 1 - 2 kg of alaun - previously dissolved (by Thai SaanSom, easy in Thailand available, 1 bag 30 kg some 350 Baht). This will clarify the water, over night without recirculation, next day the settlement at the bottom can be sucked away.

The pH maintaining will not have an influence on the water clarity, there is no danger for people when it will rise over 8 (same as sea water or mountain lakes). The level around 7.4 is recommended since the chlorine is then most effective.

The chlorination is good for bacteria killing, in a reasonable dose, 3ppm is surely too much. In a case the local water contains quite a lot of iron, the chlorine will promptly discover it and the water will be discolored. Again, the SaanSom will help a lot - a real wonder material.

Disclaimer:
My advice will not be found good by professional experts, especially those who sell the chemicles (and all the fine devices for the measurement and maintaining). Why? They do not recommend the copper sulphate (because is so cheap) but the chlorination, not only for the bacteria killing but also for the algae killing. For that it needs a daily high dose and daily pH maintaining. Both these sorrows cost quite a lot of effort and money (not speaking about the problem with iron).


I have a 60 cbm pool (selfmade by cement blocks and ceramic tiles) some 10 years, filled with ground water with high content of iron (and other metals), with minimum daily care (about pH). Daily swimming in clear water.

How to manage the ironized water? There are here few my older threads about that.
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Re: Structured approach to pool chemistry, help please.

Postby Cameljockey » Thu Jan 19, 2017 1:59 am

Klondyke wrote:My advice:
very first sorrow is about the green water, killing algae, growing enormously in the current bright sunshine. That can be cured and afterwards regularly maintained by copper sulphate, some 200 gr. on your 55 cbm, slightly previously dissolved in water bucket. Then every week some 100 gr. more when often vacuum cleaned and backwashed, so new water will be added.

If still not clear, add some 1 - 2 kg of alaun - previously dissolved (by Thai SaanSom, easy in Thailand available, 1 bag 30 kg some 350 Baht). This will clarify the water, over night without recirculation, next day the settlement at the bottom can be sucked away.

The pH maintaining will not have an influence on the water clarity, there is no danger for people when it will rise over 8 (same as sea water or mountain lakes). The level around 7.4 is recommended since the chlorine is then most effective.

The chlorination is good for bacteria killing, in a reasonable dose, 3ppm is surely too much. In a case the local water contains quite a lot of iron, the chlorine will promptly discover it and the water will be discolored. Again, the SaanSom will help a lot - a real wonder material.

Disclaimer:
My advice will not be found good by professional experts, especially those who sell the chemicles (and all the fine devices for the measurement and maintaining). Why? They do not recommend the copper sulphate (because is so cheap) but the chlorination, not only for the bacteria killing but also for the algae killing. For that it needs a daily high dose and daily pH maintaining. Both these sorrows cost quite a lot of effort and money (not speaking about the problem with iron).


I have a 60 cbm pool (selfmade by cement blocks and ceramic tiles) some 10 years, filled with ground water with high content of iron (and other metals), with minimum daily care (about pH). Daily swimming in clear water.

How to manage the ironized water? There are here few my older threads about that.


Thanks Klondyke, I have seen your other posts with pictures of your pool. Your approach is interesting, and certainly cheaper than the usual method with chemicals. As my pool is very clear and the salt water generator seems to be making a good amount of chlorine, I hope that everything will stay more or less in balance once I get the CYA, TA and pH in line, without any chemicals.
Cameljockey
 
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Re: Structured approach to pool chemistry, help please.

Postby Klondyke » Thu Jan 19, 2017 8:18 am

Correction:
The SaanSom correct name in English is Alum (Alaun is in German). When googled it will disclose many good features of this wonder substance, known already to our forefathers.

Available not only in the chemical shops but sometimes also at general stores at villages since liked to use it for the sedimentation of the troubled ironized waters in the storage tanks.

Sold sometimes as beautiful clear stone crystals, slowly soluble. For our use - distributing direct in the pool- is better to get it crushed. Then, easily dissolved in a small bucket and thrown gradually into the pool surface.

More about that in my older thread of water treatment.
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Re: Structured approach to pool chemistry, help please.

Postby Klondyke » Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:18 pm

@Cameljockey:
Any feedback how did you manage the water?
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Re: Structured approach to pool chemistry, help please.

Postby jazzman » Sat Feb 25, 2017 9:12 am

For swimming pool use, better than alum for rapidly clarifying the water is poly aluminium chloride. The yellow powder is usually sold in 25Kg sacks which would be enough for an olympic pool for several years. Sold in suitable quantities for private pool use, there are many brands that call themselves Flocculant PLUS. Add Thailand as one of your search words in Google and you'll come up with several suppliers (at least in Pattaya). The stuff is quite cheap and really works wonders.
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