An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby gliffaes » Thu Mar 22, 2012 6:14 am

gliffaes wrote:Ive actually posted this on "my build thread" but it may be better here, the bitumen paint? does anyone have a Thai name for this type of paint?? I have seen some bitumen type paint at Thai watsadu ( photo) but it seems pricey for 2.5 litres at 1750 baht, I mean the rings are now 300 baht each here ( not 90 baht) so add up 6 rings = 1800 baht + 1750 for paint for the 1st black septic and thats about 3550 baht already for 2 tanks when plastic tanks can now be had for 3k each. Ok so its still about half the cost but its not the cheap price it used to be.
Bitumen paint anyone??

Update on pricing, Thai watsadu had priced this stuff wrongly, its actually 500 baht a tub also the concrete rings we were told 300 baht each BUT this was for the ones with the solid bottoms, the open rings are 130 b in Hua Hin now. So total costs will be 7 open rings 40cm deep 80 cm diameter 1 closed base ring at 300baht 2 tubs of bitumen @ 500 baht each =2210 + lids for both which I cant remember the price. cheapest plastic units were 2990 baht and 600 litre capacity.
As we are on a labour only price its irrelevant for anymore costs
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby gliffaes » Thu Mar 22, 2012 6:14 am

(Duplicate post removed Mod)
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby geordie » Thu Mar 22, 2012 5:04 pm

Can i ask what the bitumens for?? when the principle is the fluids are allowed to drain away anyhow :) if anything a quick smear of neat cement around the joins should do an adequate job
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby gliffaes » Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:50 pm

geordie wrote:Can i ask what the bitumens for?? when the principle is the fluids are allowed to drain away anyhow :) if anything a quick smear of neat cement around the joins should do an adequate job


Well its only for the "shi**er" black water, tank according to jazzman to make it 100% waterproof, the second tank for grey water is open to the ground and not painted with bitumen and each ring also has a spacer in so water can drain out + holes in the sides .
The first tank, so i read must be sealed 100%. otherwise its NOT a septic ( to quote RR) again probably overkill but hey ho its not expensive to do.
Photo from another build dozer or Jazzman cant remember?
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septic_set.jpg
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby BKKBILL » Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:24 pm

Carry on Gliffaes think you are on the right track. Some times the reason for doing things is not at first apparent. For one you do not want any surface water leaching into your septic tank then out to contaminate the surrounding area. And as you say “hey ho its not expensive to do".
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby gliffaes » Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:48 pm

Oops did a Geordie double post
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby jazzman » Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:45 am

Six years down the line since I took the photo above of the septic tank I built for my house, and still working perfectly. No smells, leach field working well, and we've had the sludge pumped out once. The great advantage is that the two toilets each have their own entrance to the tank, which of course avoids any vacuum problems when someone 'pulls the chain'. I won't mention what we find in the septics of our bungalows...
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby mrbojangles » Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:32 pm

I'm just getting to this stage in my build. Nothing dug out or bought yet. A couiple of questions if I may.

In the picture above, the pipes look quite small. I've used a bigger one coming from the only toilet, would that be ok to have it going straight into the concrete rings and sealed up around it. I probably won't be able to get the up and down spouts you've used. Is that a problem?

What are the up and down spouts for?

lastly. In a plastic tank, I presume there is a divider to seperate the sludge going in and straight out. What do you use in a concrete ring set up?
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby jazzman » Thu Apr 05, 2012 8:13 pm

It's all standard 4" PVC pipe, 8.5 grade. The vertical bits are just T-pieces. There is no divider, the lengths of the vertical inlet and outlet pipes stuck into the T-pieces do that job. A well functioning septic builds a crust on the top of the water and it shouldn't be disturbed. These T-pieces allow the water to enter and leave without creating any turbulence. Heavy stuff stays on the bottom until it has been biologically degraded and rises as clear water to the outlet and to the essential scum crust on the top for further biological action.
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby MGV12 » Fri Apr 06, 2012 4:49 am

jazzman wrote:It's all standard 4" PVC pipe, 8.5 grade. The vertical bits are just T-pieces. There is no divider, the lengths of the vertical inlet and outlet pipes stuck into the T-pieces do that job. A well functioning septic builds a crust on the top of the water and it shouldn't be disturbed. These T-pieces allow the water to enter and leave without creating any turbulence. Heavy stuff stays on the bottom until it has been biologically degraded and rises as clear water to the outlet and to the essential scum crust on the top for further biological action.


Nicely described!

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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby mrbojangles » Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:13 pm

jazzman wrote:It's all standard 4" PVC pipe, 8.5 grade. The vertical bits are just T-pieces. There is no divider, the lengths of the vertical inlet and outlet pipes stuck into the T-pieces do that job. A well functioning septic builds a crust on the top of the water and it shouldn't be disturbed. These T-pieces allow the water to enter and leave without creating any turbulence. Heavy stuff stays on the bottom until it has been biologically degraded and rises as clear water to the outlet and to the essential scum crust on the top for further biological action.


Thanks jazzman.

It's always hard to tell in pictures, it's just in Gillafaes picture above, they don't look like 4" pipes.

This is my build. I'm basically going to put the first tank near to where the pipe is sticking out. It comes straight from the only toilet in the house. Do you think I should put a vent pipe in somewhere?

DSCN1261 (800 x 600).jpg


DSCN1259 (800 x 600).jpg
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby jazzman » Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:08 pm

You can be absolutely sure that those pipes are all 4" - that is a picture of the septic tank I built myself, see the link in my signature.
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby Mike Judd » Thu Nov 21, 2013 3:12 pm

As some of you may have read my post on how not to instal a Plastic Septic tank after the disaster I had with mine this year. Obviously weather comes into it and should be taken in consideration . So I consulted with my Plumber mate of many many years, he has over 40 years experience in every aspect of Plumbing/Drainage and Gasfitting so what ever he advises I take notice of. I am so sorry that I never talked it over with him prior to my effort but that was mainly because the decision to buy the tank and get it put in was made on the run so to speak. Anyway for what it's worth his instructions for the best results are as follows. Dig the hole larger than required, place the tank in the correct position, fill it up 100%full then put 4 ties of reasonably strong rope out from the top down to the 4 corners of the hole where they are tied to any lengths of spare plastic pipe, back fill the hole and you are done. This ensures as he said that if ever you have the tank pumped out in the future there is no danger of the tank moving even slightly as it would have to drag the buried pipe up to do that. Maybe some would say a bit of an over kill but certainly not any great expense to achieve, and a lot less hassle than digging it all up because it had moved just slightly for what ever reason. A mate in Phuket had his dug up at his Town house because the connection broke causing his toilets to back flood. Luckily for him still in the default period.
As my plumber said , you never had that problem with the old concrete tanks.
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby Ftpjtm » Wed Feb 26, 2014 11:29 pm

Holly crap! You are all scaring me to death over my new house! We just bought a new house in a Chon Buri sub division of so called "luxury homes". There will be 40 plus 2 and 3 bedroom single story homes crammed together. We have 2 plastic waste water "things" burried in the ground. I asked the builder what kind of maintenance they require and the answer was "none, they work good forever". But then a few weeks after we moved in he warned us that we shouldn't flush toilet paper. It could cause problems.

I really don't want to kick my age old "toilet paper habit", but I am wondering what trouble is brewing for my black plastic tank and I! I guess I should also mention that we are one of the only houses equipped with a washing machine and dishwasher so we are heavy consumers /discharges of waste water. So far so good after several months of flushing but I wonder how long that will last!

Any advice on how to monitor my tanks in an effort to detect future trouble? Any recommendations on pumping them? And what about toilet paper? Do you all flush it or do you put it in the waste basket as suggested by my builder?
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Re: An anecdotal approach to SEPTIC TANKS (illustrated)

Postby thailazer » Thu Feb 27, 2014 6:18 am

FTP... We have checked our plastic tank occasionally and find no evidence of toilet paper that we flush. The bacteria just eats it up. We have one 1600 liter plastic tank that feeds an open set of concrete rings, and then a large drainage field of perforated pipe in round gravel after that.

On your second point, hopefully the laundry and grey water goes into a different system. Your toilet sewage needs dwell time for the bacteria to do its thing. If you discharge laundry and other grey water into your toilet sewage, you do not get the dwell time. Check your system to make sure you don't have one for toilet bowl sewage and another for grey water.
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